Learning Center

Start by rinsing your face with water. Water is what makes this “wet” shaving; providing hydration to your beard is key to a good shave. Most people enjoy warm water to open pores and soften the hair.

Using your shaving brush, mix water and shaving soap or cream together to create a lather. The important trick here is to make a hydrated lather that is not too runny or dry. Work the brush and soap vigorously into your beard using circular motions, avoiding a “painting” stroke. The job of a brush is to not simply apply, but to build the shaving lather into and around your hair follicles.

Whether you’re using a safety razor or a straight razor, the two most important factors are angle and pressure. With a vintage razor, there is no flexible head that contours to your face; you must find the right shaving angle (usually between 20-30 degrees). The other variable to keep in mind is pressure. Because most of us have formed bad habits from modern cartridge razors, you must keep in mind that the weight of the razor does the work. In addition, lathering up several times and completing “passes” across your beard will get it the smoothest. Using with-the-grain,across-the-grain and against-the-grain strokes, you can achieve a close shave while minimizing irritation.

It’s that simple! When you’re done shaving, rinse your face with cool water to help close pores and sooth your skin. At this point, apply either a shaving balm, after shave, or lotion to your face to help your face recover from the exfoliation the razor edge provides. If you’re prone to dry skin, avoid products that contain alcohol, as this can worsen the situation.

Original and un-opened packaging as it was manufactured The condition of the razor itself is not in question- in fact sometimes aging has damaged the razor inside of the packaging, yet it still remains un-opened.

Appears as though it just left the factory floor Packaging has been opened but all items are in perfect condition All price tags, instructions, blades, shippers and boxes should be present.

Excellent Some packaging materials missing No flaws to the plating or paint- no scratches or marks.

Slight blemishes present Some missing paint or small scratches.

Shaveable Moderate damage or wear present Mechanically sound, aesthetically flawed.

The resistance of the leather against the steel of a straight blade. It is the feedback one feels when using a strop and is very much a personal preference whether more or less is desired. It is akin to the way a car “grips” the road.

One pass of a straight razor blade back and forth along a medium.

The process of uniformly removing metal from a straight razor blade to bring both sides together as close as possible. Honing is carried out with a series of natural or synthetic sharpening stones. This is how a blade is sharpened and should be done every 3-6 months or as the shaver requires to maintain comfort and performance.

A great conditioner for leather products like baseball gloves and strops. Neatsfoot oil will keep leather soft and supple, prevent drying or cracking but also increases draw.

Compounds added to either the canvas or leather side of a strop that increase its ability to maintain or sharpen the cutting edge of a straight razor. Some pastes can even take the place of regular honing on a sharpening stone.