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In our everyday life, we are exposed to chemicals everywhere you go. Some appear in our food, our water, our air and our environment. It’s a symbol that we live in a brave new world where we rely so heavily on petrochemicals, toxins and additives to get by. In recent years, there’s been a large movement of people who support “going green”, knowing more about what they put into their body, and what they choose to use in their homes.
One of the best ways that many men never think of is how they shave. It’s a little known fact that modern day canned gels and foams contain a list of potentially toxic chemicals. Everyday, millions of men smear these concoctions all over their face, not realizing that the skin absorbs nearly anything it can in it’s environment. Here’s a list of just some of the ingredients found in many popular modern shaving gels/foams:
- Propolene glycol – Humectant. Rash or burning sensations are the most common side effects, but reactions are extremely rare.
- Triethanolamine(TEA) - Emulsifying agent. A skin irritant, appears to degrade into nitrosamines, which are linked to cancer.
- Sodium lauryl sulphate – Surfactant. Mimics estrogen and can be absorbed directly through the skin
- Sodium laureth sulphate – Surfactant. Carries 1,4-dioxane (carcinogen) in trace amounts, also an irritant to some after repeated exposure
- Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate – Surfactant. Carries 1,4-dioxane (carcinogen) in trace amounts, also an irritant to some after repeated exposure
- Mineral oil – Petrochemical, can block pores.
- Isobutane, propane and butane – Propellants. Flammable and have a drying effect on the skin. Most of it evaporates in 10 to 15 seconds after being dispensed. Longer for gels however. Petrochemical.
- Pantothenic Acid – vitamin B5, Lubricant, skin conditioner, emollient and a hair conditioning agent. No known health concerns.
- Stearic acid – Granite, limestone and marble counter-tops erode in the presence of this acid. Fatty acid, used as a lubricant.
- Butylated Hydroxytoluene – preservative. Suggested but unproven carcinogen.
- Dimethicone – Silicone foaming agent and hair conditioner. In a conditioner it replaces the oil that has been stripped from the surfactant in soap products. Rare but some users experience mild itching or stinging. Hydrophobic chemical.
By using a traditional shaving brush and natural soap product, such as those found in our store, one can take pride in taking care of their skin inside and out. Avoid those chemicals- enjoy your shaving ritual, and do your body good! Go vintage, and enjoy the benefits of a healthier, cleaner shaving experience.
Do you remember your first car? Mine was a 1989 Ford Thunderbird coupe- a little rough around the edges and constantly costing me large mechanic bills. But I loved that car nonetheless. Today I drive a beautiful Honda Accord EX Coupe, much more stylish and tailored to my desires. In the same way, your first shaving set-up isn’t your last.
Many customers call or write to us requesting the best shaving equipment as their first purchase. I usually advise that instead of trying to get the ultimate setup at first, focus on technique and trying new products. A simple vintage Gillette Super Speed or Merkur Razor will be great to start with- it can help you to turn your attention to learning how to become proficient with what you have.
When you first start off, finding the best safety razor blade for your skin, the best brush type for your beard, and determining whether you prefer soaps or creams are much more important than trying to buy the best safety razor. Just like the car you eventually end up with, the preferred or luxury shave equipment you desire come in time ad are better enjoyed when your technique is mastered, not too unlike driving. Happy shaving!
Though it feels as if it’s only been a few months, I’ve been at this “razor thing” (as some of my family refer to it) for nearly 5 years. Being an avid collector most of that time, and now a retailer for the past year, much has been learned a long the way.
However, it seems as if every time I visit a shaving forum, the same questions keep popping up. People ask about various Vintage Gillette’s. They want to know how old their razor is, or from what year it was made. They ask about catalogs, or advertisements from the different era’s. They want to decipher a date code, or learn more about the elusive “Red Dot” razor.
We created Razor Archive for just that purpose- a place where people could learn all about vintage Gillette razors in 1 spot. We’ve tried creating this FREE resource to everyone as a way of giving back. There was no research areas / information sites like this when I started off. Much of my information was gained from talking to collectors, scanning thousands of advertisements, and thumbing through every catalog or instruction manual I could get my paws on.
However, even in the past, when myself or Sebastian would post all sorts of valuable information on forums, it never seems to see the light of day again. It’s kind of like the Library of Alexander- we provided so much text, but it’s forgotten. Don’t let the cycle continue- check out our Razor Archive to learn all you need to know about vintage Gillette razors. Because somebody before you has already asked that question, and somebody else has already answered it!
Inevitably when you run an online store dedicated to vintage shaving, you get asked about straight razors. Luckily, I happen to have a personal affinity for the ‘cut-throat’ style of shaving instruments. From their look, feel, and most importantly, performance, I can honestly say that I love straight razors!
I get asked all the time what straight razor is best, how hard is straight razor shaving to learn, what products should I pick up at first etc. etc. So I thought I’d make a brief blog post that covers some ground on the subject. Here goes!
1) How hard is straight razor shaving to learn?
This is a loaded question, because inevitably it is very subjective. However, I would turn the question around and ask, “How hard is it to drive a motor vehicle?” It’s not such a bad analogy- driving a car requires attention, feedback, skill, and practice to get good at it. And the same thing applies to straight razor shaving. At first, the mechanics can be a little awkward/intimidating, but worry not- if you keep at it, you will learn it! Watch some youtube videos of people shaving with straight razors- its an easy way to pick up the important things like skin-stretching, angle, direction and even which hand to use. Remember “monkey-see-mokey-do” – as humans, we learn easiest by observation. Practice in an easy area like your cheek, eventually it will start to feel natural.
2) Will I get lots of cuts/nicks using a straight razor?
When using a finely sharpened piece of metal to remove whiskers from your face, you always run the possibility of cutting yourself! However, I will tell you that straight razor shaving is a VERY tactile experience. What I mean by that is you feel every second of the shave. It engages your senses and you are very aware of what the blade is doing. And because you are holding directly onto the same piece of metal that is mowing down your hair, you get a very ‘analog’ feedback from the cutting edge- like a record needle on a piece of vinyl. You feel every bump and groove of your face, and learn to navigate around it like driving your car to your job every morning, or hiking your favorite trail. In this way, I’ve had less than 5 cuts from shaving with a straight razor in over 2 years. Even with a quality DE razor, I still occasionally get nicks during a shave.
3) Should I get a disposable straight razor to learn on before investing in the real thing?
I would say simply, “no.” There are two key elements of straight razor shaving that you need to learn in order to have a pleasant and efficient experience: Blade Angle & Pressure. The angle at which the straight edge is held to your face along with the amount of pressure you use will instantly determine whether you’ll be removing hair or nicking your skin. Luckily, learning this on a traditional Double Edge safety razor transfers over quite nicely. So if you want to prepare for straight shaving before taking the plunge, pick up a nice DE razor and learn that for a few weeks. It will break your habit from cartridge/electric razors of being passive/unaware of the blade angle/pressure. Shavette’s / Disposable straights were made for modern barbers/hair-stylists who can’t use traditional metal straight razors due to sanitation laws. They feel much different than a real straight razor, and just because they look similar doesn’t mean they’ll teach you anything about real metal straights.
4) What straight razor products should I start off with / what do I need?
I would tell you that a properly restored and honed vintage razor will probably serve you well for years if not decades to come, and can be had much more reasonably than modern made straight razors. The makers of steel from the late 1800′s/turn of the century were not messing around- there was plenty of competition out there to force manufacturing quality to be quite high. Some of the English/German/Swedish steel of yesteryear is un-paralleled today so definitely take a look at cutlery outfits from these countries when searching for a vintage straight razor to purchase. You should be able to pick up a nicely restored/honed straight for $50-$75.
5) What about Stropping/Honing?
In terms of your strop, there are many makes out there to choose from. As long as the leather/canvas are of good quality, you’ll probably be okay. I’ve even seen people using denim jean material and a wide leather belt for a starter set. Honestly, that would probably be okay as well. Keep in mind that the strop only aligns the blade prior to shaving and does not sharpen it. Honing on sharpening stones is only needed every 3-6 months and is best carried out by someone who both has the hones and is experienced in doing so.
Conclusion
Remember that like anything else, learning to straight shave is a process, not an event. Also be open to a bit of experimentation and tweaking your set-up when you first get started. Just like driving, your first automobile isn’t your “dream car.” Likewise, start with a modest set-up and move to nicer things as your skills and ability grow. When it comes to the stropping/honing/maintenance of your razor, it isn’t such a bad idea to try out different aspects. You might find that you really like honing, and that you want to explore doing more of it. Or you may find that sending it out and paying $20 is much more reasonable so that you can do more of the thing you prefer: using the razor! And that’s what makes this hobby so fun- so keep at it and don’t be afraid to try new things!
With so many products to choose from on the market, it can often leave new or even intermediate shavers scratching their head wondering what products are “best”. Fortunately it doesn’t take much to get an awesome shave, and you can certainly do it on the cheap.
Many people have said it before, but one of the best bargain shaving products that money can buy is most certainly the Italian Proraso line. If new shavers haven’t had the chance to try their many products out, I’d definitely recommend picking up their tub of shaving soap or Pre/Post shaving cream. The quality, fragrance and performance of these shaving items surpasses products many times their monetary value.
Another great inexpensive product is the Van Der Hagen boar shaving brush found at your local grocery or super market. Many new shavers get the impression that boar brushes are somehow inferior, however this stigma only lies in people who choose badger for comfort, not performance. There’s no side-stepping the fact that boar brushes aren’t as soft or “luxurious” feeling as an expensive badger brush, but the performance and ability to improve your shaves is without question.
Lastly, never discount the merits of a good vintage razor from Gillette or Schick. The manufacturing standards, qualities of metal and tolerances of razors from the 1940′s and 50′s is as good if not better than some of the most expensive newly produced razors today. And with a simple clean up and sanitation of a vintage razor, you can be on your way to getting an awesome shave for a fraction of what it would cost to buy a newly made razor.
One underlying theme that I’d like to convey with this blog entry is that wet-shaving doesn’t necessary have to break the bank. There are so many great products out there, and getting started can often seem overwhelming with so many options and choices out there. The important thing is to get started with affordable and available products, and remember that the experimenting and various products to choose from are part of the fun of our wet-shaving hobby. And remember that just because it is expensive doesn’t necessarily mean its better than some cheaper products.
Though it seems like so long ago, my business partner Sebastian and I started the work of building Razor Emporium just 1 year ago. The store opened with it’s first orders in March 2010 and since then we’ve grown by leaps and bounds. The whole time we’ve tried to keep one thing in focus: providing the best resources for everything vintage shaving on an independent site to our valued customers.
We started with a passion for double-edge safety razor usage and collection. From there we were an early proponent of products like iKon and PILS. Since then, we’ve introduced a service for the community of shavers: Razor REVAMP. This was the culmination of our experience with collecting razors and fulfilling the need to make vintage shavers look and function like new again. Now we’ve even ventured out into straight razors, soaps, creams, hard to find blades and a host of other products and services.
So as this year comes to an end, I just wanted to take a moment and thank all of our 556 loyal customers who have tried us out and patroned our business to date. We’ve had our fair share of challenges to overcome- as many in our community wish for the status quo to be upheld in spite of a constant evolution and improvement to what we do and what’s available out there.
Have a safe, happy and prosperous New Year as we pass from 2010 into 2011. We will continue to serve the community with a passion for the razors, history and everyday usage of vintage shaving gear. Happy shaving, and Happy New Year!
We’ve just been featured in the January-February 2011 edition of Arizona’s Antique Register magazine, a publication which is found in every major antique store throughout our state. Here is the article’s full text to read!
It may seem odd that in an era of faster computers, bigger televisions, instant emails and cell phone predominance that some men are turning back the clock and reaching for vintage safety and straight razors to shave with. In the past few years, there has been quite an increase in popularity of traditional shaving with the internet being a medium of information and communication on the subject. There are hosts of chat rooms, blogs and advice columns featuring all the tips you’d need to pick up this retro return to days gone by and shave like your grandfather. And that brings us to razor aficionados Matt Pisarcik and Sebastian Sandersius—two young men that took their hobby of collecting shaving products and barbershop memorabilia and turned it into an online retail store specializing in revamping safety and straight razors for men all around the world to shave with once again.
The story of how these two gentlemen got involved with safety razors is quite ordinary in some sense, but just goes to show that every customer counts. “A few years ago I was early for an appointment in the downtown Phoenix area and decided to stop into an antique store along 7th Street to pass the time. The store-owner asked if a young man like me had ever seen vintage safety razors that Gillette used to make,” recalls Matt. “When I told him I hadn’t, he proceeded to open a display case with a beautiful 1940’s gold Aristocrat safety razor inside. I thought it looked so neat and just had to purchase it, along with a few others on display.”
Soon Matt became interested in the various models, packaging and era in which these razors were made. After some cursory research on the internet, he was hooked and started making more trips to antique stores, however now accompanied by his long-time friend Sebastian. “At first, I would bring Sebastian along just for the company and another set of eyes in the antique stores,” recalls Matt. “However, not long after the first few trips, Sebastian caught the ‘bug’ as well and started picking up razors on his own.”
The collection grew with new razors, cases, blade dispensers, advertisements, signs, straight razors, strops and other barbershop-type pieces being acquired. Soon a display case was given by a friend to make a home of all of these collectibles. The two even befriended a retired employee of the Gillette Company who had also been an elaborate collector and lived in the Valley. Their relationship with Roy Johnson further inspired them to continue their hobby and even take it to the next level. Eventually, both Matt and Sebastian started acquiring duplicates of items that they already had; and rather than pass them up, they continued to acquire whatever razors they could get their hands on. This was the beginning of the next part of their story—opening the Emporium.
The popularity of this return to using vintage razors was fueled by men around the country and world who either weren’t satisfied with their current way of shaving, or were searching for a better way to perform the daily ritual. Even Matt and Sebastian had converted to using the vintage razors themselves, and found it to be a superior way of shaving. However, not everyone who was interested in vintage shaving had access to restored, cleaned and sterilized safety razors, straight razors, or blades for regular everyday usage. So the two entrepreneurial men decided to open an online store as an outlet for these excess vintage shavers and other barbershop items that they had on hand—and that was the birth of RazorEmporium.com.
Rather than simply passing along items they found, the men work to fully refurbish razors so that they can be made good as new. Recently, they have even begun to offer re-plating services for customers who’d like to send their vintage shaver in for a fresh coat of 24K Gold, Rhodium, Nickel, Silver or Chrome plating. The two have even worked to import modern shaving creams, soaps, after-shaves, brushes, blades and all sorts of other shaving products for men who are interested in shaving the traditional way. Needless to say, with services and products like this, the Razor Emporium has been quite successful.
“Since opening in March of 2010, we’ve served over 400 customers through our online store in more than 30 countries around the world,” says Sebastian. “Like Gillette’s slogan of the past, we’re ‘Known The World Over!’” At the heart of what Matt and Sebastian do are good products, good customer service, and good business practices. “It’s very rewarding to know that we’re making people’s lives just a little bit better by providing the means for a really good shave,” says Matt. “And for those who like to just collect this stuff like us, I guess we’ve helped fuel their acquisitions lately!”
Despite the demands of business, the two continue to collect together and still make antique “hunting expeditions.” They now have over 300 prized pieces in their safety razor collection, consisting solely of excellent to near-mint pieces from Gillette and a few other choice razors and promotional items. In fact, the Gillette Company recently contacted the pair to borrow a vintage WWI razor for an advertisement. The two both agree that their favorite part of the business is still hunting around for razors in antique stores. “We’re hoping to head out to the Mid-West sometime soon because we hear that’s where the best ‘picks’ come from,” says Sebastian.
Of course, one of the biggest aspects to this vintage shaving revival coincides with a much more modern fad: going Green. “The best part about using a vintage razor is that you are not throwing all those plastic handles, cartridges, packaging and aerosol containers into the landfill,” says Matt. “The only part of an old-school shaving set-up that gets disposed of are the small double-edge blades, and a lot of people like that.” While their customers mostly comprise the male gender, Sebastian says that many women are jumping on the vintage shaving bandwagon: “they even get better shaves too – using the right soaps and creams with a proper vintage razor gives users better results than modern products… and they are cheaper to boot!”
The two have even expanded and started to work with other collectors to sell items on commission through their web-store. Items from these private individuals are often in pristine condition and need little to no work at all to get ready for usage again. “We want people to know that we’re here to help with whatever we can when it comes to vintage shaving razors and like products—whether it be appraisal, photographing, selling, or consigning,” says Matt. “It makes us happy to know that these wonderfully constructed items can get out of old shoe boxes or garages and be used once again. It’s a testament to how things used to be built to last, and we hope that becomes popular once again.”
One of the most exciting parts about our wet-shaving hobby / lifestyle is the practicality and implications to every person you meet, both man and woman. When you tell a colleague, friend, or relative that you have recently got into shaving the “old-school” way, you now have the key opportunity to spread the message about why you made the change.
By explaining the benefits to your happiness, appearance, pocket-book and environment that vintage shaving provides, you set the stage for another person to join the resurgence and toss that plastic shaving system away for good. We are capable of passing the torch, I myself have converted nearly all my family and friends. I know that for many of us, the hobby is slightly obsessive and fun to acquire new toys. But don’t forget that we originally got started to get better shaves or improve our happiness in some small way. And that’s the message to share.
I personally keep many shaving products around the house in case someone stops in that gets interested after seeing my collection. Often a simple boar brush, a puck of soap, Super Speed razor and some various blades can get someone to try this old way of shaving for next to nothing. And during this time of year, its an even better opportunity to turn gift giving in to a new hobby/lifestyle through a starter shave set-up.
Remember that we’re all here to grow the Community, and hopefully get more attention to our methods, trials and results. Everyone who I’ve exposed to traditional shaving has only had the best of results and enjoyed it thoroughly. Do your part whenever possible to spread the message!
Often in our little world of wet-shaving it’s easy to get caught up with so many aspects of the hobby. From soap and cream choices, to forum banter, to where to find the best deals on blades, we forget that we’re here for a few distinct reasons.
First and foremost, we all joined this community of wet-shavers to get better or more enjoyable shaves. I know that I originally got interested in safety razors simply because the Mach 3 that I had was tearing up my neck. And for those men that wanted to just have a more enjoyable, leisurely morning ritual that involved some skill, practice, and patience; safety razor or straight razor shaving certainly provides that.
But never forget that we are also here to share the experience, advice, and friendly tips with those we encounter. To help the ones after us who are just getting started, as the ones before us did. Also, don’t forget that in the wide world of hobbies and recreational activities, shaving doesn’t rank very high with most people, and remember to laugh a bit at times when you think of how “into it” most of us can get.
I recently read THIS ARTICLE from the onion and it made me laugh; mentally comparing it to the wet-shaving lifestyle that I am involved in and how much it’s been shaped and influenced by others. Give it a read when you get a moment, and remember to have humility when reflecting upon just why we’re all here, and what it is that we’re after.
In a culture where trying new products in not only half the fun, but certainly inevitable, its easy to loose sight of the importance of a “go-to” shaving setup. There are days when your skin is just beat up; maybe you’ve been using a new razor or blade, maybe trying out a new technique. But either way, you know that having a questionable outcome is certainly not an option. Or maybe you’re getting ready for a big date, a big night out, or a big meeting. You know that you need to look your best, and for that, you need your “old faithful” products.
For me, it took a while to really find the comfy products that deliver time after time. They aren’t the most interesting, not the most exotic, but man- can I rely on them to give a wonderful shave! Like a good pair of jeans, they always seem to “fit” and work well with nearly any condition I can throw at them. And for me, these include Mitchell’s Wool Fat shaving soap, a good boar brush, an Open Comb Ikon Razor, and a Feather Blade. I’ve gone back and forth from many products to find this combination, and it’s one that I certainly love to visit anytime my face needs some comfort.
That’s not to say that I don’t have other products I use! Like most of us, I have several other creams, blades and razors to choose from. They provide the “variety” which is the spice of shaving to me. However, it’s certainly nice to grab those classics and give them a whirl. And for that reason, I implore you to also find your “go-to” shaving setup- it’s truly a thing of beauty and peace when all the pieces come together!
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